FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

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General questions

Q1. My safety switch has switched off and I can't reset it. What should I do?

A. Turn off all circuit breakers (or turn off main switch and remove all fuses). Switch on safety switch (if it won't reset, call your electrician). Turn on each circuit breaker (or turn on main switch and replace each fuse). If the unit trips after turning on one circuit breaker (or replacing one fuse), this is the faulty circuit. Leave this faulty circuit turned off and switch on remaining circuits. Unplug all appliances on the faulty circuit. Turn power on to the suspected faulty circuit (if safety switch trips, call your electrician). Plug in appliances and switch on one at a time. If the safety switch trips after switching on a particular appliance, this is the faulty unit and should be repaired by a qualified electrician.


Q2. We have a movement sensor which doesn't always detect us in the same area. Is this normal?

A. Yes, movement sensor sensitivity is affected by the weather. In summer you may find the detection area is not as wide as in winter.


Q3. We are going to have some extra phone extensions fitted. Do we need to use telstra?

A. No, the work can be done by anyone who is the holder of a current Australian Communications Authority licence.


Q4.Can you explain in simple terms why we are always blowing are power fuses, mainly in Winter?

A. The most likely cause is an overload and in winter portable heaters and clothes dryers generally cause this problem. The best solution is to look at each circuit and see what your loading is. Firstly look at the size of your circuit, for power it will be generally be 15,16 or 20 amps. Next multiply your circuit amps by 240 volts, this will give the maximum loading in watts that the circuit will carry without overloading it. Now look at your appliances that you have plugged into that circuit, each appliance will have a rating in watts stamped on it. By adding the total in watts of all the appliances together you will be able to determine which appliances can be on at the same time without exceeding your circuit rating.


Common Questions about Floor Heating


Q1. We are having a bathroom renovated and was wondering if there is an alternative to the traditional forms of heating eg, Tastics and strip heaters?

A. DE-VI have a new product called devimat which can be installed on an existing timber or concrete floor. This can be installed directly under the tiles in the tile glue. No more cold feet.


Q2. Does the heating cause structural damage such as cracking the slab or tiles?

A. No, because floor heating does not cause the concrete to become to hot, in fact it will not become as hot as your concrete footpath will become on a sunny day. Cracking may occur if the heating is used to cure the concrete quickly. The heating must not be activated for at least one month after pouring of the slab or laying of the tiles onto a topping.


Q3. Is it possible for the heating cable to become faulty or burn out?

A. In a properly designed installation, controlled by the devireg floor sensing thermostats the cable will not be allowed to run hot enough to cause damage. There is a greater possibility for the damage to occur during the concrete pour, or at a later date if holes are drilled into the slab.


Q4. If the heating cable is damages can it be repaired?

A. Damage detected during the concrete pour or damage occurring during the later stages of building work, can be located and repaired using special testing equipment. Since the DEVI cable does not absorb moisture, repairing the cable is very straightforward and does not require a large access hole.


Q5. Do the systems require any maintenance?

A. No, they are virtually "maintenance free" because there are no moving parts to break down, and no grills or ducting to clean and maintain. Compared to alternative central heating systems such as ducted or hydronic systems, radiant heating systems are truly maintenance free.


Q6. When using in-slab heating is extra slab thickness required?

A. No, electric in-slab heating does not require any structural modifications, e.g., if 100mm is specified, it will be quite sufficient. The cables are attached to the top mesh just prior to the pouring of the concrete.


Q7. Can a suspended slab be heated?

A. Yes they can, however the exposed underside of the slab must be insulated to minimise downward losses. Styrofoam or polystrene insulation boards are often used.


Common Questions about Ceiling Heating


Q1. Ceiling Heating can't work because hot air rises, surely I will experience a hot head and cold feet?

A. No, because the warmth emanates from a large area, low temperature surface, it radiates warmth uniformly to all parts of the room, including furnishings and the floor, and to all sides of the occupants.The occupants feel warm, but it is difficult to tell where the heat is coming from.


Q2. If the warmth is generated above the ceiling, wont most of the heat be lost upwards?

A. Thermal insulation is an integral part of any ceiling heating installation. The installation of adequate thermal insulation (usually 75- 100mm thickness of bats over the heating foils) ensure that no more than 15% of heat generated will flow upwards. This is similar to the upward losses from the conventionally heated and insulated buildings.


Q3. How long does it take for the warmth to be felt after it is turned on?

A. Warmth is felt within 15-20 minutes, although it may take 1-2 hours for the room to achieve full operating temperature. Once the room has achieved the desired temperature, the system will cycle to maintain the temperature without noticeable fluctuations.